Adventures of a Gastronome in Training (GIT)

One amateur foodie's quest for culinary enlightenment. Musings on cooking, dining, food products, basically all things edible are fair game.

Tuesday, June 15, 2004


Last weekend Marty and I joined two friends to try Landmarc in TriBeCa. There has been considerable buzz about the place for several months (see Andrea Strong, EGullet, Amanda Hesser's NYT review.) The reviews handed out high praise of the roasted marrow bones with onion marmalade and grilled country bread, crispy sweetbreads with horseradish and green beans , foie gras terrine with pickled red onions, sautéed calf's liver with peas, scallions and caramelized onion whipped potatoes, and steak frites. Clearly, too many excellent choices…

Landmarc was more casual than I anticipated, although patron’s dress ranged from shorts to sport coats. We sat downstairs, so I can’t comment on the second floor. The main floor is anchored with a small bar in the back that overlooks the flame flickering grill. The exposed brick walls, mild lighting, and simple metallic artwork give it a softened industrial look.

Countless reviews have mentioned that they are looking to provide a neighborhood spot. Landmarc achieves this through the comfortable atmosphere, the lack of reservations for parties of 6 or more, the varied menu, and the affordable wine prices.

Initially, my eyes were bigger than my stomach. I wanted, arguably, the two heaviest items on the menu, roasted marrow bones ($12) and sautéed calf's liver ($21). (Marty rolled his eyes because this is not an uncommon mistake for me) Luckily, it took some time for our wine to come (a very tasty Bordeaux at an extremely low markup). I stayed with the roasted marrow bones and went with the grilled quail sautéed mushrooms, bacon and cherry tomatoes ($22). Marrow was essentially new to me. It tastes like the fat from the edge of a rib roast, but with a much smoother, strangely delicate texture. I loved it. I first piled my grilled bread with only marrow. Later bites included the delicious onion marmalade and sea salt. Everyone tried it and enjoyed. Although, Marty said he had enjoyed marrow more elsewhere. Marty had the cucumber soup special and liked it, but wanted more flavor. I tried a spoonful of the French onion soup ($7) and was impressed. A gooey glob of gruyere with a rich beef broth that wasn’t too salty for a change. By the time I got to the grilled quail, I knew I had ate too much marrow. I forced myself to down the dish, which was excellent. The flavors are still dancing in my mouth. Next time, I will order this on a much emptier stomach. Marty got the rib eye with the shallot bordelaise ($28), and was pleased with his choice.

Far too full for dessert, we all passed. By the time I got home, I knew I had eaten way too much. The marrow, the presumed culprit, did not sit well. In fact, it did not sit at all (need I say more). Unless you have a huge appetite or stomach of steel, I would recommend sharing the roasted marrow bones with several people.

Overall, I can’t wait to head back to my new neighborhood spot…


Blogger TLB said...

I went to Landmarc and sat on the 2nd floor -- it's just about the same atmosphere as on the first but there's this cute private-ish booth for larger parties with a curtain around most of it. I actually went there with Foodie, on ms. Hesser's recommendation. Didn't try that marrow though, thank goodness!

6:55 PM  
Blogger git said...

I saw the private-ish both on their website. They call it the "VIP room - Table 215." Inquiring food lovers got to know, what did you eat and how was it???

7:25 PM  

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Jennie/Female. Lives in United States/Jennie Auster/New York, speaks English. Eye color is blue.