Adventures of a Gastronome in Training (GIT)

Jing Fong

2005-08-05T16:25:00.000-04:00

After trying Ping's Seafood and the Golden Unicorn, I was still looking for more out of my NYC dim sum experience. Ping’s is too cramped, and although the quality is good, variety is limited. The Golden Unicorn, on the other hand, is spread out with many more carts whizzing around, but a few of my favorite fried items were soggy and extremely greasy - yuck. That leads us to our latest tale of NYC Chinatown dim sum, this time, a la Jing Fong. We went there a couple times in my ninth month of pregnancy and have been back with baby in tow to make sure it wasn’t just my pregnancy taste buds that were pleased. I have to say, Jing Fong has risen above the others and proven to be the best so far.

The set up consists of a large banquet hall dressed with your typical Chinese restaurant décor that you access via escalator. The space is bigger in size compared to one of the floors at Golden Unicorn. Most of the tables are big, so if you’re with a small party, you’ll probably be sharing your table. It has a more hectic atmosphere compared to Golden Unicorn. I think that’s because there are even more carts circling the room, and some of the items are prepared and served at banquet tables along one wall, getting people out of their seats to get food. Plus, there seems to be more of a vigilante spirit in the clientele who frequently jump up to chase down desired carts.

This was the first place in NYC where I could have all my favorites in one sitting –Chinese broccoli, sticky fried balls with pork inside, sesame balls, steamed and baked pork buns, fried taro root, Chinese spare ribs, shrimp in rice noodles, radish cakes – really they have it all. I even established a new favorite, shrimp fried in potato nests. Plus, the flavors and preparations met my expectations: the fried treats – crisp and reasonably light and the savory fillings – delectable. Finally, we have a place with both quality with variety, and I walked out of there with the gut ache to prove it…

Small bites: Craft vs. Hearth and Kurobuta Ham

2005-05-16T18:15:00.000-04:00

Taking Sides

It’s logical to compare Craft to Hearth given Hearth’s chef used to work at Craft and Craftbar and Tom Colicchio is a financial backer of both. Plus, they serve some of the same dishes – notably side dishes of gnocchi and hen of the woods mushrooms. Well, now that I’ve been to both and sampled the sides at both places – it’s time to take score. In the gnocchi battle, score one for the underdog - Hearth does them best. I've never had a meal at Hearth without them. Not to take that lying down, Craft comes in with the superior mushrooms. It's astonishing just how good a simple mushroom dish can be. Don't get me wrong, I would happily scarf both at either place. But, I just thought I would put my 2 cents out there…

Kurobuto Ham

I don’t know if we were boon-dogged by David Rosengarten or not, but Marty and I decided to order a half Kurobuta ham through him for Easter (I know it’s been a while since I’ve posted…). We cooked it up Easter Sunday with great success. It was delicious and savory with distinct ham flavor and a certain richness. Kurobuta pork has more fat marbling and shorter muscle fibers, the meat was incredibly juicy and tender. It made for several decadent (yes, ham can be decadent) meals. Honestly, I don’t think I’ve ever had ham as tasty. Now, I have never made an Easter ham. In fact, neither of us had any real experience with hams – with the exception of the uninspired product that ends up thinly sliced on a deli sandwich. Sure, I had heard of Smithfield hams, but I don’t think I’ve had one anytime in recent memory. That’s where I run into the problem, Smithfield hams are about $30-40 cheaper than this special made Kurobuta ham. Would we have been better off with the standard Smithfield and $30 bucks in our pocket? With no point of comparison, I couldn’t say. I guess the next logical step is to find an occasion to cook up a Smithfield, and go ham crazy for another week.

Kittichai

2005-03-31T14:52:00.000-05:00

Kittichai is one very of those hip/stylish venues that can make a diner leery. It’s located in the SoHo boutique hotel 60 Thompson. The lighting is subtle, the fabrics lush, the staff tall and thin. You can’t help but wonder if the place is about the scene or the food – and I can’t help but think of Spice Market as an example. Scenes can be fun in that adult Disney kind of way, but when you’re 7 months pregnant – it’s about the food. And, I must say, I was pleasantly surprised with my meal. That is certainly thanks to the restaurant’s eponymous chef Ian Chalermkittichai who is the former executive chef of the Four Seasons Bangkok.

The reviewers have been consistently positive, but not gushing with their opinions although they seem to vary a little on the favorite dishes. We started off with the galangal soup with chicken, lemongrass and kaffir lime ($8) and chocolate back ribs marinated in Thai spices ($9). The classic soup was delicious. The lime flavors blended smoothly with the richness of the coconut. It was as good as at my all-time favorite Thai place, Tamarind in Atlanta. Although…I did feel pretty silly paying eight bucks for it. I found the ribs moist and not too fatty, but I wouldn’t have thought of them as a Thai dish. Some have complained about the sweetness of this dish, but I found it only subtly so. For entrees, we tried the crispy whole fish with lesser-ginger and Thai hot basil ($27) and wok-fried chicken with roasted cashew nuts, dried chili and green onion ($18). For me, the whole fish was the star of the show. It came in a panang-like sauce which paired perfectly with the crispy fried fish. I could eat this every day of the week. The wok-fried chicken was solid, but not noteworthy. We also got a side of the pineapple fried rice with sweet sausage and shredded egg ($7) which is served in a carved out pineapple. The pineapple chunks were limited and mild. I liked this dish for its textures – thin strips of egg with chewy rice and chunks of sausage.

I, of course, had to pass on the intriguing list of specialty cocktails. Marty did try the mandarin martini (fresh mandarin juice with Cointreau, fresh lime juice and Skyy vodka - $12), and wasn’t very impressed.

If you’re more the foodie and adverse to scene-y places – go early, a 7:00 p.m. reservation would work. If you want to see more of the atmosphere in action, get a drink first and go late. Kittichai manages to satisfy both the foodie and the fashionista, not crowds that usually mix well together, and that may well be the restaurant’s greatest achievement.

Angon on the Sixth and Brick Lane Curry House

2005-03-16T14:12:00.000-05:00

I guess I’ve been on a bit of a curry binge lately. When I was visiting family in Denver, I requested Indian for one of our meals out. Then in the last week, I’ve tried two places in NYC – both with notable results. The first is Angon on the Sixth, located on Curry Row in the East Village. It has been a chowhound darling since opening last fall. Chef Begum Mina Azad surfaced in Manhattan bringing the talent that gave her notoriety at her former digs in Queens at Mina Foods & Restaurant. I had read that the food is “incredibly authentic, though Bangladeshi.” To be honest, I had no idea what that meant. After visiting, I think I have an idea. The food was much lighter and fresher tasting compared with your typical Indian restaurant in the U.S. This was most pronounced in the palak ponir ($8.95), which has thinly shredded spinach paired with homemade cheese. Mina’s rendition was assembled without cream and the spinach was not puréed. This resulted in a delicious, healthy tasting dish. The message boards and the New York Time’s review raved over the dhal fry ($7.95). It is a dish of earthy yellow lentils with a malto-meal like consistency. Again, the dish had a healthy taste, no evidence of the “fry” indicated in the name. The third dish we tried was the chicken korma ($12.95). I’ve had this dish countless times at your standard Indian outlet, but here it is light on the cream, therefore less rich. To be honest, I missed the depth, but I did not get that bogged down feeling that often accompanies an Indian feast. There are still many dishes to I need try at Angon, but my general impression based on what I’ve had is decidedly positive. It’s a nice change of pace from your typical Indian – one that your arteries would welcome.

My next curry fix was satisfied at the Brick Lane Curry House, also on the 6th Street Curry Row. It is described as London or British-style Indian – which to me is just your typical north Indian food I’ve had in the U.S. When this style is executed badly, it’s oily and greasy with a side of clarified butter. When it’s done well, as at Brick Lane Curry House, it’s rich with layers of flavor and completely satisfying. Although I do like the treats from the tandoor, I am a curry girl. My standard is chicken tikka masala, and Brick Lane Curry House’s ($15) does the trick. It’s a little sweeter than average, but there is enough flavor depth to balance. The curry has a thin consistency that avoids the typical greasy pitfalls with ease. The chicken chunks, fresh from the tandoor, were tender and well prepared. I am certain this dish will be calling me back to Brick Lane's door time and time again. The samosas ($5) were solid, though nothing special. But again, I’ve had so many that have missed the mark either by being too greasy or salty that I am happy when it just meets the mark. The saag paneer ($12) was also up to par, rich with cream and savory spinach. Granted, it’s not nearly as good as what I've had at Tamarind. But, when paired with a bit of the buttery, hot from the oven nan ($3), you can’t miss. Overall, Brick Lane Curry House does a very respectable job of satisfying my craving for standard (i.e. London-style), north Indian eats. I'm actually quite relieved to have found a place in Manhattan that can...

Golden Unicorn

2005-03-14T16:16:00.000-05:00

Marty and I headed over to Golden Unicorn last weekend to try out their Dim Sum. Up to this point, our NYC dim sum cravings have been satisfied at Ping’s Seafood. Ping’s in general, has treated us right, but there are some drawbacks. First, if you get seated downstairs (which we seem to be sat almost every time), there is no cart service. The variety of treats making basement appearances is scaled down from the main floor. You have to send waiters on wild goose chases for your favorites – trying to explain what you want in English can be challenging. So…I figured it was time to try out some of the other dim sum houses that NYC had to offer.

Golden Unicorn is prepared for serving in volume with three floors of seating – we, of course, only saw one. It was far more spacious than Ping’s with sun coming in the wall of east facing windows. All of the carts have pictures of the contents with both English and Chinese labels. The servers wear cute little uniforms that resemble candy stripers with hats to match. The décor is what you’d expect, but feels more comfortable than some given the space between tables.

Overall, we thought the food was pretty comparable to Ping’s. I saw no real difference in the baked and steamed bbq pork buns, shrimp noodle, or spare-ribs with black beans. The food came fast and frequently – we must have seen some items pass by a dozen times during our meal. On the other hand, we had to wait around to see some variety in what went by. I was impressed with how they cooked the turnip and taro cakes on a portable griddle cart – they came to your table hot and silky. The only disappointments were the sesame balls and sticky fried pork dumplings. They were both under-fried and soggy with grease. I’m willing to write this off to a bad batch. I’ll see how they turn out next visit. Plus, I never saw Chinese broccoli – something I count on to counteract all the grease and pork. Again, who knows if this was an isolated omission or typical for the restaurant.

I think we’ll head back to get a better feel for their strength and weaknesses. Plus, I really prefer the ambiance over Ping’s – it just seems less hectic, more relaxing. Depending on my mood, this can be a big plus over Ping's.

Fish Tales - New Green Bo & Spike Hill

2005-03-01T11:52:00.000-05:00

I apologize for my continued hiatus. I’ll keep trying to get back to this on a more regular basis…

In the meantime, I have hit a couple of places for fried fish that really stuck with me. The first was at New Green Bo (Bayard b/w Mott and Elizabeth Sts). We hit NGB for the first time for Chinese New Year – luckily we had a reservation. It’s a tiny place with a few 4-seater tables and several tables that seat 8-10 – if you go with a small party, expect to sit with other small groups. The décor is straight forward Chinatown basic. NGB is known for its soup dumplings, which we perhaps foolishly did not try. We did enjoy the fried pork dumplings, which still were a little juicy and full of porky flavor. I am a sucker for fried bread, so the scallion pancakes ($1.50) totally hit the spot. Theirs are not too greasy with a nice savory flavor. The Ma Po Bean Curd ($5.95) is a simple dish of tofu in a spicy sauce. The depth of flavor went beyond just heat, which made it stand out from similar renditions. For veggies, we enjoyed the sautéed pea tips ($10.95) served in a rich chicken broth. Finally, the surprise dish was the yellow fish with dried seaweed ($12.95). I kind of had to laugh when they arrived at the table – they look just like frozen fish sticks my babysitter made me as a kid. Looks can be deceiving – these tasty sticks were nicely seasoned and fried to a satisfying crunch. Plus, the firm, flaky fish hidden inside showed no signs of mushiness found in your grocer’s freezer.

On another fishy note…After reading the favorable review of Spike Hill’s fish and chips in the Times’ $25 and Under Column, Marty and I decided to head to Williamsburg to check it out. Spike Hill is conveniently located right on the main drag across from the Bedford L train stop. It’s a lively pub with a great selection of beers, but we were there for the fish… I started with the warm goat cheese salad in a blood orange vinaigrette ($7). It was a decent salad. The sweetness of the blood oranges seemed to overwhelm the goat cheese, but with careful bite construction it worked out fine.

The fish and chips ($16) arrived with tartar sauce, ketchup, and a bottle of malt vinegar. The fish was coated in a bread crumb batter, much lighter than the traditional wall of batter you typically see. The batter held up well to the shower of vinegar I promptly imposed on my fish. I must say I was impressed with the overall product, moist, flaky, firm fish with a crunchy, greaseless batter – what more could I ask. The skin-on fries were unremarkable. They did the trick, but didn’t really add to the overall appeal of the dish. But, keep in mind that where the fries left off, the fish made up for in spades. This crave-worthy dish will become a regular on my dining circuit.

More on Hearth & Lupa

2004-12-03T16:13:00.000-05:00

Well, so much for that once a week posting goal… Anyhow, I do have a few more quick bites from recent New York dining.

Marty and I took his parents out for another outstanding meal at Hearth. I had the baby lettuces ($9) with shallots, beets, and red wine vinegar. Not an amazing salad, but it worked. Although I didn’t try everyone else’s dishes the marinated sardines ($12) and Nantucket scallop special (~$15) seemed to disappear pretty quickly. For an entrée, I had the pumpkin tortelli ($20) in an amaretti, chestnut, and sage sauce. Although not a large portion, it was a perfect fall/winter treat. The filling was not too sweet and contrasted nicely with the rich sauce. We couldn’t pass up the heavenly gnocchi ($8), and tried out the polenta ($6). The polenta was more like fancy grits dotted with herbs. They were okay - I wouldn’t likely order them again. We passed on dessert since we had molten chocolate cakes waiting for us at home, but I couldn’t help but notice that the apple cider doughnuts are back on the menu. I had read a lot about them when Hearth opened, but by the time we went, they were off the menu. I may have to make another reservation quickly just to try those out.

Another place we hit with Marty’s parents was Lupa (or to be more formal Lupa Osteria Romana). We’ve been there 2 or 3 times previously and once we’ve taken the time to translate the tedious menu - it’s all in Italian with a glossary of translation on the back of the menu - have enjoyed most everything we’ve had. A couple of dishes have been too salty (a bread-crumbed, proscuitto appetizer special and a sausage pasta special), but otherwise the place stands out for its superior quality homemade pasta and overall value (we got out of there for four spending about $100 although we did skip wine and dessert). Our consistent favorite dish at Lupa is the appetizer, octopus "in Panissa" ($10). The octopus is very tender and sitting in a garlicky, chunky sauce of chickpeas. This time we also tried the smoked eggplant "Sformato" ($6), which was basically an eggplant puree over ricotta cheese. It was also delicious. None of the pastas were jumping out at me, so I tried the pork Saltimbocca ($16). It was okay, I think I would stick to the pastas.

Back for a couple bites

2004-10-27T09:12:00.000-04:00

Sorry I have been out of commission. I have started a new job – not food related, unfortunately. It has been quite the adjustment what with alarm clocks, schedules, and the like. So, once I get back in the swing of things, I’ll do my best to try to post something weekly.

In the mean time, here’s a few tidbits that I’ve been enjoying of late…

• Guacamole and chips at Rocking Horse Mexican Café (8th Avenue at 19th Street): The chips have some weight to them, yet are very crispy and the guac is chunky and fresh. At around $8, it’s no steal, but I think it’s still worth a trip. The entrees are a bit hit or miss. Basically, I would recommend filling up on chips and guac. Then, maybe you could share a couple appetizers with a group to supplement. However, avoid the pomegranate chicken dish at all costs, unless you like syrupy sweet sauces on your chicken - you've been warned.

• Pork buns at Grand Sichuan International Midtown ($3.95 for 2). This was another great surprise from GSIM, perfectly executed with tender, slightly sweet BBQ’d pork and a tangy, soft bun. I can now have a touch of the dim sum treat I love with the entrees that I love.

• Diner (85 Broadway at Berry St, Williamsburg) for brunch. It’s flat out the best. Last time, I got their hard boiled egg sandwich (~$6) – it rocked. Lettuce, tomato, feta cheese, and slices of hard boiled egg on a crust French loaf – I loved it. Besides that, the salami scramble (~$7) is a perennial fav for Marty. The bloody mary’s are addictive. All I can say is, if you haven’t been – go.

Blue Hill at Stone Barns

2004-09-21T16:13:00.000-04:00

For at least a month or so, I have been on OpenTable trying to get a weekend reservation for Blue Hill at Stone Barns. Finally after weeks of trying, I succeeded with a Saturday evening slot. As all good planning seems to go, Marty had to be out of town that weekend. So, I tried again and felt pretty lucky to score a Friday evening reservation. I plotted out our journey – from Grand Central Station take the Hudson Line to Tarrytown ($7-9.25 each way), then cab it to the restaurant ($7-9 each way). The route from downtown Manhattan takes about an hour and fifteen minutes thanks to the express train (it’s another 15-20 minutes more on the local train). I had visions in my head of a relaxing train ride along the Hudson capped off with bucolic farmhouses surrounded by pastures filled with livestock and hand harvested gardens. Instead, the remnants of hurricane Ivan obscured what wasn’t already cloaked by darkness at our 7:30 p.m. arrival to the farm. From what I’ve read, Stone Barns is a lovely 80-acre farm and agricultural center donated by the Rockefellers that consists of restored 1930s barns, silos, and farmhouses spread out on rolling hills.

In the restaurant dining room, the white walls blend seamlessly into the soaring ceilings contrasting with the exposed metal rafters. It is a simplistic design that allows the grounds to be the highlight. To me, both my fellow diners and the space reminded me of the fine dining establishments in Midwestern suburbs. That might not mean much to most people, but to me...it kind of made me smile. Anyway, it’s spacious and pleasant without pretense. The staff is enthusiastic, informative, and happy to answer questions.

The untraditional menu is divided into four categories: Tomatoes, More Tomatoes, From the Pastures, and Hudson Valley Pastures (themes change with the seasons). You can select from the groups in any order and pay accordingly (two courses [$46], three courses [$56], four courses [$66]) - desserts are separate. Only the last dish in succession will be entrée sized with the preceding choices scaled down to appetizer portions.

Chefs Dan Barber and Michael Anthony have the resources at their fingertips and thankfully know how to use them. Our meal initiated with a shot of liquid corn, sweet and simple. I dove into the colorful heirloom tomato salad where the expected tomato flavors and textures were contrasted interestingly with a tomato sorbet and watermelon chunks. Marty’s baby romaine lettuce sat atop a fresh tasting eggplant-tomato tapenade and was served with a vinaigrette that danced with addictive bits of pancetta. It was topped with an egg that looked like a hard-boiled egg covered in breadcrumbs, actually it had been fried – great texture and flavor. Next the crabmeat arrived hiding under thin slices of cantaloupe and squash. The sweetness of the cantaloupe at times overpowered the crabmeat, but I still enjoyed the combination of fresh flavors. Marty’s cod was perhaps my favorite dish. It sat in a tomato-coriander sauce, almost like an Indian masala, with chanterelles. Finally, I had the pork trio, a combination including a thick slab of bacon, a slice of sausage, and small tenderloin. It was such a treat with every juicy and savory bite, especially those that included sausage. Marty’s duck with Asian greens and carrots was excellent, perfectly cooked, tender and flavorful. As it always seems to happen, we were too full for dessert – maybe next time…

I have to say, the meal was a knockout – the best I’ve had since moving to New York. I guess that means I agree with Frank Bruni’s three star review. Considering the quality, it’s also be quite a bargain if you have a car. But, since we don’t, the $60 we spent on transportation certainly negates the overall value. Even so, with fall at our doorsteps, I can’t imagine a better way to spend an early Sunday dinner (that way you can actually see the grounds and enjoy the views from the train).

Hearth

2004-09-13T16:03:00.000-04:00

Hearth opened last November with considerable expectations for chef-owner Marco Canora and partner-wine director Paul Grieco. Canora most recently held the point position at Craft and Craftbar, and the “less is more” influences at Hearth are apparent. This is probably okay since Tom Colicchio (Craft, Gramercy Tavern) not only taught both Canora and Grieco, but is a financial backer of the restaurant. Critics have been complementary (Grimes, Hesser, Rubenstein), but Egullet-ers and Chowhound-ers have been more enthusiastic seeing a great opportunity to have Craft dishes like hen of the woods mushrooms ($9) at more everyday prices.

The warmth generated by the name Hearth is not translated to the sparse and simplistic environment. The rustic brick walls are set off with shiny copper pots, and the ceiling is painted a brilliant red. I liked the staff uniforms of blue stripped button-downs with Levi’s. They, more than the décor, set the tone for an unpretentious dining experience, that and the wine menu – well, beer menu to be specific. I usually don’t order beer in a “fine dining” experience, but the respectable list of a dozen domestic and international beers including De Musketiers Blond Ale from Belgium ($8.75) and Stoudt’s Gold Lager from Pennsylvania ($6.50) told me otherwise.

The meal started out with the red snapper crudo with lemon, red pepper, and rosemary ($10) and dandelion salad with anchovies ($12). I preferred the simple flavors and silky texture of the raw snapper with the lemon and red pepper. Marty favored the salad where oil from the anchovies infused the dressing giving the whole salad a zing. For an entrée, I tried the black striped bass with roasted garlic and wilted rapini aka broccoli raab ($24). It was a solid, simple dish the played together nicely. Marty had the lamb sampler or “roasted and braised domestic lamb with lamb sausage” ($26). It was hard to choose whether the short rib or tenderloin cut was best. Actually, I’m not sure what cuts they were – that was just my best guess. The sausage was not all that trilling, but when you have a sampler something has to be the relative loser. We couldn’t resist trying the straight from Craft gnocchi side dish ($7), which are, as reported, pillowy soft with subtle parmesan flavor. I just can’t believe they can get potatoes to take on such a light feel. We were in a hurry for dessert, so our waiter suggested we try one of the essentially “warm and serve” offerings. I have to say Lauren Dawson, Craft's former pastry sous-chef, did not let us down. The warm plum tart ($9) was wonderful, buttery, mildly sweet, and all together a surprise hit. It didn't matter that it was served with a forgettable lemon thyme ice cream.

Hearth offers thoughtful cuisine aware of seasonal and local ingredients as well as simplistic flavors at surprisingly fair prices in a welcoming atmosphere - seems like a great mix to me. Since I have only been to Craftbar once for a sandwich and never to Craft, it’s hard for me to compare. I do fear having a lower priced alternative will put a bit of a delay on heading out to either anytime soon. In fact, today I made another reservation for Hearth for a treat next month…

Home-style Sushi Bonanza

2004-09-08T16:16:00.000-04:00

With sushi prices what they are in Manhattan (anyone up for Masa’s $300 per person chef’s omakase lunch or dinner?), I’ve found the best alternative -save maybe waiting in line at Tomoe Sushi on Thompson- is to make it at home. Sure, the rice may not be as expertly prepared, and our rolling technique wouldn’t fly even at the most amateur styled sushi bar, but you sure end up with a lot more change in your purse. Besides, it’s such an easy and fun meal for dinner parties.

Sushi spread for four

Last weekend after a tiring hike in the Catskills, we swung our rental car over to Misuwa Market Place in Edgewater, New Jersey. This chain Japanese grocery is huge and has everything from a bakery to a travel agency to an excellent sashimi-grade fish selection. For example, you can spend anywhere from $20 to $70 per pound for an array of sashimi-grade tunas. It’s a full-scale grocery with all the veggies, dairy items, and frozen treats you could hope for. Even the Manhattan-bound car-less can join in on the fun and take a bus over (see their website for details). For our sushi blowout for four, we stocked up on the following:

 Yellow tail (½ lb at ~$23/lb)
 Toro (Choice tuna belly, ½ lb at ~$32/lb)
 Salmon (½ lb at ~$20/lb)
 Freshwater eel
 1 package Surimi (imitation crab)
 ½ lb Shrimp
 30-sheet pack of roasted seaweed
 Powdered horseradish (for wasabi)
 1 Cucumber
 2 Avocados
 Spinach
 Salmon eggs (Ikura)
 Eggs (for Tamago, sweetened omelet)
 Sushi rice
 Soy sauce
 Rice vinegar

Chef Grace

Our friend Grace has been making sushi at home for years, so she acted as head chef while the rest of us did our best to help out. Most of the prep is in cutting things up like the avocado, cucumber, and fish. For making the tamago, just take 3 well-beaten eggs, 1-½ tablespoons of sugar, and a splash of soy sauce and cook like you would an omelet. Then cut into strips. For the spinach, rinse well and sweat in a fry pan with water and a bit of soy sauce. For the spicy mayo, add some chili oil to mayonnaise to taste. For the wasabi, add just a little water to a tablespoon of powered horseradish until it reaches a pasty consistency. And finally, for the rice, cook in rice cooker as directed. Then fold in a couple tablespoons or more of rice vinegar to taste.

The burrito roll

The result is a lot of fun. You can get creative or go way over the top (see Marty’s burrito roll – he was really hungry from a day of hiking…). We just did hand rolls this time, since we were pretty tired out. All you need to do it cut the seaweed sheet in half and make triangle with your rice. Place whatever your heart desires on top, and roll into a cone. Our general feeling was that everything was of good quality, especially the tuna - it was exceptional. The only true disappointment was the freshwater eel. It always tastes much better in restaurants. By the end, we were all stuffed – quite an accomplishment with sushi.

Hand-roll with yellow tail, ikura, and avocado

Popcorn: the Secret Ingredient

2004-09-01T14:24:00.000-04:00

I am a popcorn fiend – I love it. To Marty’s dismay, I still find myself reviving my college habit of popcorn for dinner when he’s out of town. But, I have to say for myself, I make a pretty good bowl. Actually, it’s one of my signature dishes (that may say something about my culinary skills). It’s such a simple pleasure, but I consistently get strong reactions from people when I serve it. Well, against my better judgement, I’ve decided to give my popcorn secrets away. So pay close attention to the following, and you won’t be disappointed.

1. Never, ever use microwave popcorn. I get that it’s a short-cut, but it’s only saving the approximately five minute prep time to make it on the stove where you get better texture and control of the flavoring.

2. Butter. Sure this is a pretty basic concept, but again the microwave imitation flavoring doesn’t stack up to the real deal. A slight improvement in taste, but perhaps the least healthy liquid one could chose to consume, is the imitation butter flavoring used in theatres across America. Comparatively, it should make you feel like a health nut pouring a couple tablespoons of butter on your bowl.

3. I tried out a lot of seasonings over the years - salt alone just doesn’t cut it for me. About eight years ago, I came across Johnny’s Popcorn Salt, and haven’t used anything else since. In fact, when we moved to Atlanta and stores didn’t carry it, I ordered it on the internet. I guess you could say, this is my secret ingredient. The somewhat alarming neon orange color doesn’t come through when it’s sprinkled on, but it does give the corn a certain pop that I haven’t found elsewhere.

The secret ingredient

Well, now you know my secrets, so all you need to do to get your own bowl going is:

½ Cup Popcorn Kernels
3 Tablespoons Vegetable Oil
1-2 Tablespoons Butter
Johnny’s Popcorn Salt

Put two kernels in a saucepan with the vegetable oil, cover the pan, and place on high heat. After one of the kernels pops, add the remainder of the kernels (put the lid back on), and start gently shaking the pan over the heat. Once the popping slows down, remove from the heat and pour into a bowl. Add melted butter then salt to taste.

Balthazar

2004-08-30T23:54:00.000-04:00

Balthazar stands triumphant over the crash-and-burn cycle to which many hip spots helplessly concede. The place is as packed as ever. Sure it’s not celebrities filling the tightly spaced tables, but mere mortals (read: mix of tourists and locals) lining up reservations. When it opened in 1997, Balthazar was the hottest ticket in town. A-listers lined the street with limos while paparazzi snapped away - the cuisine was really secondary. After a bit of a learning curve, the bumps were ironed out and Ruth Reichl donned it two stars. More recently, Amanda Hesser reaffirmed the rating asserting that food has remained consistent over the seven year review interval. This considerable accomplishment is mainly attributed to Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson, the co-chefs who have been there from the beginning.

The original mirage of an authentic French brasserie straight from the sixth arrondissement has become more authentic with age. From the beginning it was well worn, just not with in-house use (marble had been aged with tea, antique mirrors come from Pennsylvania, light fixtures were left over from a defunct department store). The noise level is still deafening, which keeps the energy level high. I figured they designed the place with high ceilings to keep the then-legal smoking from fogging up the room. Now, they just keep the sound bouncing.

There’s much of the menu that I still need to try – I haven’t even been to what I hear is their best meal, breakfast. However, my lunch of toasted French ham and gruyere on country bread with mixed greens ($13) was spot on. It managed to be savory and filling without being greasy. And the bread basket, yum - stick to the sourdough and be generous with the salted butter. I also greedily sampled some of the text-book fries that came with Marty’s moules frites ($15). I would come here for the fries alone, but they are made even better soaking under a buttery steak. For once, it wasn’t me ordering the steak frites ($24). It was Marty – I made him share. In exchange, I forked over rich, sauce coated chunks of my duck confit with crispy potatoes and wild mushrooms ($21). The appetizers have also pleased. Marty tried out some impressive oysters ($14 for ½ dozen). I enjoyed the contrast of the strong cheese and sweet onions in my goat cheese and caramelized onion tart ($9), but wasn't overwhelmed. The only dessert we’ve tried is the dense, dark chocolate cake with white chocolate ice cream. It’s like a molten chocolate cake, without the lava center. I’ll tell you what, I didn’t miss it.

Beyond breakfast, there is so much more at Balthazar that I want to try – whole roast free-range chicken for two, Dover sole meuniere, even the cheeseburger. Given what I’ve had so far, I doubt I’ll be disappointed.

5 Ninth

2004-08-24T12:45:00.000-04:00

Like a tech stock riding high in the late 90’s market bubble, this neighborhood (NYC's Meatpacking District) just feels like it’s about to crash into bridge, tunnel, and tourist cheesy-ness. In the middle of the mayhem, on a should be quaint cobblestone intersection, sits 5 Ninth. It opened in May, and there has been a decent amount of buzz since. The reviews thus far (Frank Bruni, Adam Platt) have come in positive, but seem to me a bit tentative. The chef Zak Pelaccio gathered a considerable cult following at the now defunct Chickenbone Café in Williamsburg, and is now stepping it up in the big leagues of Manhattan dining.

5 Ninth is housed in a decidedly charming 3-story townhouse built in 1848. Complete with exposed brick and ceiling beams, six fireplaces, and a backyard garden, the place feels warm, comfortable, and miles away from its Spice Market style neighbors. Even the wait staff uniforms of jeans and blue oxfords reflect the clean, yet dressed down atmosphere.

Dining at 5 Ninth required a fair amount of waiting, we waited nearly 20 minutes to get seated for our reservation. After waiting about 20 minutes for our appetizers, we attentively knocked out another 30 minutes waiting for our entrées. Finally, we waited for our waitress to pick up our check long enough to tire and switch our payment method from credit to cash. This may still be opening bumps, but after over three months in operation, you can’t be sure.

I started with the medley of assorted roasted beets and out-of-this world bacon ($12). The bacon nearly over-powered the beets, but a bite of the two together resulted in a nice texture. However, the texture of Marty’s wide noodles in a lobster and coconut milk broth ($15) with galangal flowers (a gingery, peppery spice) was off. The broth was the consistency of alfredo sauce and the noodles were too slick for the dish, but the flavors of the coconut and other spices were pleasantly balanced. I also enjoyed the blend of flavors of my John Dory (fish similar to black bass) with garlic sauce, mustard seeds, mushrooms, and new potatoes ($28) - though it may have been a little over-cooked. Marty’s duck ($27) was perfectly roasted, but sat in a very salty sauce that overpowered anything that came in its path.

5 Ninth, as others have noted, is full of promise. To me, this promise lies in the creative and ambitious chef and the warm atmosphere. It feels like it should be your neighborhood restaurant, but the prices and location preclude it from ever becoming one. I had to wonder if, for example, the John Dory had been $20 instead of $28, would I be singing the praises of this place? I guess affording the high-rent location precludes lower prices, so the only route they can take is to step up the food a little so it really wows. Until then, I'll have to wait on the sidelines hoping to hear it's worth heading back.

Distrito Federal Part 2 - Ligaya, Los Girasoles, Etc.

2004-08-23T13:18:00.000-04:00

As promised, I continue to describe the assorted tummy treats experienced in our recent trip to Mexico City. I had done a little restaurant research on Egullet and Chowhound prior to our vacation to supplement the food finds our friends had already uncovered. Based on this, I chose a nouveau-Mexican place called Ligaya in the hip Condesa neighborhood where my friends live. The minimalist designed restaurant was all decked out in white broken up interesting and colorful contemporary art and tropical plants. It was the perfect place to get our friends together and spend our first night in a place where we could talk. I had a solid portobello mushroom appetizer, hongo portobello al horno – sounds so much more exotic in Spanish, and a flavorful arrachera (skirt steak) as an entrée. We threw back three bottles of wine between the six of us and had a blast. We all shared a rich, dense chocolate cake for dessert, which really was the highlight of the meal. Overall, I would say the food was not spectacular, but the company made up for it in spades.

Red Snapper at Los Girasoles

The best meal we had was at Los Girasoles or sunflowers on Tolsa Plaza not too far from the Zocalo (in fact, we took a pedi-cab from there). The restaurant has a nice patio sprawling out onto the plaza. Inside, the sunflower theme is apparent – the flower is featured in the dishes, artwork, and fabrics throughout the interior. I started with the beef tacos that came with tasty little nopales – cooked cactus pads that reminded me of okra. The red snapper topped with fried sweet potato straws was excellent. It was served with a mix of sautéed veggies like onions and peppers. Marty had the arrachera, which was more flavorful and tender than what I had tried at Ligaya.

Beef Tacos at Los Girasoles

Arrachera at Los Girasoles

For our final evening in D.F., we went whole hog - or cow actually - for a meat-eating blowout. The name of the place translates to “follow the cow,” and we did. At about $12 a person, we explored the variety of beef cuts and sausages brought unceremoniously to our table. Sure there were empanadas, French fries, soup, and salad, but those were for suckers. Well to be honest, I’ve recently decided my favorite food is salty fries soaked in steak juice, so I did house nearly a basket along side my beef. Anyhow, it was an exploit in excess. The meats we had were decent, but not nearly as good as what I’ve tried at similar churrascarias in the U.S. like Fogo de Chao in Atlanta. On top of that, the service was very slow. But considering the American experience would set you back nearly $40 a person, the relative value could not be ignored. Basically, think of it as a fun night of ridiculous over-eating.

Assorted Meats at Follow the Cow

Distrito Federal Part 1 - Huevos

2004-08-17T12:29:00.000-04:00

Marty and I just returned from a fantastic visit to D.F. – Distrito Federal or Mexico City as you might know it. Our friends residing in the world’s largest city were invaluable for two non-Spanish speaking tourists trying to navigate the city. We managed to avoid the cliched pitfalls – we didn’t get kidnapped, robbed by our taxi drivers, or pick up any digestive maladies. Instead we were able to experience the Catedral Metropolitana which began construction in 1567 by Cortez and the Spanish missionaries right on the spot of the existing Aztec temple, D.F.’s version of Central Park, Chapultepec Park, complete with native pole dancers hanging from rope a hundred feet in the air, and perhaps most importantly incredible local cuisine.

Huevos with black beans, onions, and chilis

I could spend all day recording our culinary journey, but in light of a decidedly messy house, I figured that I had better divide up our trip into more digestible portions. Maybe because it’s morning now, but the only thing I can think about are huevos. We had them every morning, and now back in New York with an empty refrigerator, I am going through serious withdrawal. It’s inexplicable how something as simple as eggs can be elevated to such an art form, and why do the breakfast eggs that Americans settle for fall so flat in comparison?

Huevos with salsa, beans, and avocados

I hope a picture does in this case say 1,000 words, because my previously mentioned inability to read/speak/understand Spanish somewhat impaired my ability to know exactly what I was consuming. You can get your huevos in myriad combinations - choose from frijoles refritos (refried beans), various cheeses, chorizo (a beef and pork sausage), tomatillo or tomato based salsas, and many more ingredients I could not recognize. Marty had one pleasant mouth tingling experience with a plate of huevos with chilis, onions and black beans. One of my favorite meals was comprised of two eggs sunny-side up placed neatly on a corn tortilla and covered with a thin poblano and cheese sauce. But, probably the most satisfying was the omelet made from an incredible chorizo, tomatoes, queso blanco served with a tomatillo sauce and fresh corn we had for brunch at the Four Seasons (unfortunately I didn’t snap a picture).

Huevos Poblanos

Although huevos were a part of every breakfast, there were a few other memorable morning tastings. I tried out the crepas flor de calabaza which are crepes filled with a savory mix of spinach and squash blossoms topped with a rich cheesy cream sauce. Another consistent treat was the incredibly fresh juices served with each meal. The most interesting I tried was the foamy topped cantaloupe juice which was like biting into a perfectly ripe chunk of melon. We also sampled some extremely rich Mexican hot chocolate, which is not as sweet as the American classic and flavored with cinnamon and vanilla.

Crepas flor de calabaza (squash blossom)

Cantaloupe juice

Jacques-Imo's Fried Chicken

2004-08-11T22:16:00.000-04:00

Recently, Marty and I decided to take advantage of his Central Park tennis plans to try out Jacques-Imo’s on the Upper West Side with Leb and Terry who live near there. I’ve been to the original in New Orleans and loved it, but I knew not to expect the same experience in the New York offshoot. As the reviewers have described, it is a kitschy place with Spanish moss dripping from the ceiling and murals featuring alligators covering the walls. It’s a silly, kind of over the top place, but then again so is the original. Amanda Hesser had given it the harsh “satisfactory” rating sans star, but had many kind words for the fried chicken:

“…Jacques-Imo's immortal dish: the fried chicken plate. There is a choice of white or dark meat. You must have the dark, and with it the corn macque choux and mashed potatoes. And then you will have an exceptional dinner at a restaurant that, quirky and flawed as it is, has something that no other New York restaurant can touch.”

So, we decided to give it a shot with the full intention of just ordering the “immortal dish”, fried chicken with corn macque choux ($14.95). Marty did regretfully supplement his meal with a half dozen awful oysters. When our plates of fried chicken arrived, we all charged in. Silence followed. No one wanted to admit it, but it wasn’t that good. Eventually, Terry said, “Popeye’s is better.” I guess that would sum it up, except I would further note that to me, it had a strange, almost metallic aftertaste. The recommended corn macque choux, a Cajun smothered corn dish that is a favorite of mine, was also disappointingly bland. Actually, the best part of my meal was my Abita Amber, but at $6 a pop, I was quickly reminded that I was about as far from the bayou as I could be.

Hesser wasn’t the only one to praise the fried chicken. The folks on Egullet concurred as well, but they did bring up an interesting point. Why in the world would the New York Times choose Jacques-Imo’s for one of its 52 annual reviews? To me it makes no sense, this is not the kind of place shooting for stars. Why then slap it in the face with a satisfactory? At best, it could have been reviewed in the $25 and under column. Who knows, with a different reviewer, I might have completely steered clear of the place, and enjoyed a nice meal from Popeye’s when the hankering for fried chicken came a-knockin'.

Standing Rib Roast

2004-08-10T22:35:00.000-04:00

In case you hadn’t noticed from my blog – steaks at Landmarc and Diner, short ribs at Spice Market, burgers at Shake Shack and Pop Burger - I’m a red meat junkie. My love of beef is not limited to my out of home dining, but is often featured in our kitchen as well. For my hands down favorite, I respectfully pass the chef’s hat to Marty - he makes the BEST standing rib roasts ever.

Our first New York attempt started with a trip to Fairway on the Upper West Side. There are a number of high quality butchers in New York, but to be honest, we haven’t had a chance to try out too many. The Fairway bone-in rib eye strangely enough was shown to be the same price as boneless, although I think this was a mistake. Bone-in is recommended for the added structural integrity and flavor. Making a roast can be pretty expensive ($12-15/pound for bone-in rib eye and about 1.25 pounds per person), but just think of how much more it would have run in a restaurant. Although I have never been at the helm when the roast has been prepared, it sure seems simple enough. The following is my best attempt to capture Marty’s freehanded cooking style. As our recent dinner guest said, “If I could make this at home, I would never go out for steak again.”

Standing Rib Roast

12 cloves garlic
4 sprigs fresh rosemary
1 t whole black peppercorns
1.5 t kosher salt
1 T olive oil
3.5 lb bone-in rib eye

In a small food processor, pulse the garlic, rosemary, peppercorns, salt, and olive oil until a chunky paste is formed. Using you hands, rub the paste all over the roast, cover, and marinade in the refrigerator for 3 hours.

Roast covered in paste ready to go in the oven

Digital meat thermometer

Preheat the oven to 475°. Place the meat on a rack in a roasting pan fat side up. After 30 minutes, lower the heat to 335° and place the meat thermometer to read the temperature at the center of the roast. Remove the roast from the oven when the interior temperature reaches about 10° shy of where you like it. Depending on your desired doneness and the size of your roast, this should take anywhere from 1 hour and 15 minutes to 2 hours. For example, take it out when the internal temperature read around 115° for medium-rare, the temperature will continue to rise out of the oven to around 125°. Then tent it with foil with the meat thermometer still inserted and allow to rest for 20-30 minutes.

Completed roast ready for slicing

Diner

2004-08-09T14:04:00.000-04:00

Sitting nearly underneath the Brooklyn side of the Williamsburg Bridge is Diner (85 Broadway at Berry St.), a reasonably priced American brasserie. Andrew Tarlow and Mark Firth opened Diner in 1999 in a 1927 dining car that has made that corner its home for over 70 years. The warm and classically refurbished interior is styled with worn granite countertops, mirrors with an aged patina, chrome stools, solid wood benches, and a somewhat sloping floor. The result is an uncontrived atmosphere that so many restaurants wish they could pull off. Especially late in the evening, the bar area is filled with local art house and indie rocker types sporting vintage styles and a purposeful unkept look. Even if this isn’t your scene, don’t be discouraged – it’s not a very intimidating crowd.

Chef Caroline Fidanza (formerly of Savoy) has constructed a menu of brasserie favorites – mussels, cheeseburgers, roast chicken, hanger steak. The printed menu is supplemented by an array of often seafood focused daily specials that are charmingly scrawled onto your table as they are described. Both the menu and specials take advantage of seasonal local vegetables. In fact, the owners have recently opened a grocery/café next door, Marlow & Sons, that features locally produced and organic vegetables as well as other high quality provisions.

The starters at Diner are not to be missed. The goat cheese salad ($6.50) combines strong, creamy goat cheese on fresh greens. A recent special, eggplant puree on a sesame seed crostini ($7.50), was delightfully varied in flavor and texture. However, another special, the special cherry tomato salad ($6.50) served on a thick slice of grilled bread, was matched with a disappointingly mild goat cheese. On our last visit, Marty had the blue fish special ($17) with leeks, cherry tomatoes, and other vegetables in a rich, yet subtle cream sauce. I am a big fan of the nicely seasoned rib eye ($22) with rustic, skin-on fries. Although I haven’t tried one yet, the cheeseburgers also have a strong following. I appreciate the ample and hearty portions, but unfortunately they have made me rule out desserts.

The no reservation policy has allowed me to spontaneously journey to Williamsburg for a number of fantastic dining experiences. I’ve even tried out their weekend brunch which was highlighted by an incredible bowl of grits topped with pork slices, cheese, and a fried egg. If this place was in my neighborhood, I could see myself eating here at least once a week, easily more. In a way, I guess, it’s a good thing it’s a borough away…

Duane Park Patisserie

2004-08-04T12:24:00.000-04:00

There are few things in life that I enjoy more than a breakfast pastry and a cup of coffee. Every time I treat myself to this combo, I feel the world slow down to a more comfortable pace. Since moving to New York, I have been indulging my morning cravings at the Duane Park Patisserie (179 Duane Street). This Parisian style bakery has exceeded my expectations. The retail shop is filled with cases of gorgeous cookies, cakes, tarts, and other delights. You can look right into the commercial baking area, and many times staff will be icing cookies at the retail counter. They do a bustling custom cake and cookie business. In the past, I have watched them preparing cookies made to look like labeled Revlon compacts, fall leaves, and breast cancer awareness ribbons. There is always a stack of cake boxes waiting for throws of birthday, graduation, and anniversary parties.

Chef Madeline Lanciani has been in the business for years. She was the first woman cook to be hired by the Plaza Hotel in 1973, and has been running her own patisseries since 1977 - first in Greenwich Village at the Patisserie Lanciana, then in a SoHo branch of the same name (both now closed), and now the Duane Park Patisserie which has been in operation since 1992.

Although the cookies ($18/pound), lemon tarts ($2.50), and chocolate eclairs ($2.50) I’ve tried have all been delicious, my favorites (and incidentally the most economical) are the pastry items they bake daily that sit on baking trays beside the register. The lemon scone ($1.50) is possibly my preferred choice, although the currant scone ($1.50) is very good as well. When I want something a little sweeter, I have a hard time passing up the blueberry muffins ($1.50) with a cinnamon-sugar crumble on top. Beyond all the sinful treats, perhaps the biggest surprises at the Duane Park Patisserie is the excellent coffee, made to order (regular, decaf, or iced) while you wait. I couldn’t ask for anything more…

Tamarind

2004-08-02T15:54:00.000-04:00

I love Indian food. North Indian curries to south Indian dosas - I love it all. The only problem is I developed my taste for it in Houston, where the Indian restaurants were not only plentiful but delectable to boot. Since leaving Houston in 2000, I have failed to recreate the low-priced, flexible take-out, delivery, dine-in, and buffet experience to which I had become accustomed. So far in NYC, I haven’t had much luck either. The cheap delivery/dine-in chain Baluchi’s was okay the first time, then ultra greasy and nasty the second. Namaskarr Indian Bistro in SoHo again was reasonable the first time, but really off the second. This leads me to the next pick, recommended by a friend’s Indian boss, Tamarind (22nd St. between Broadway and Park). Unfortunately, Tamarind does not fall into the ultra-cheap column, but it’s not that pricey. However, I was pleasantly surprised by a well-executed, flavorful meal.

Tamarind is an upscale Indian restaurant in with simplistic modern touches, soft lighting, and cozy curtained booths. The kitchen is exposed to the dining room, and when you walk by you can look into the tandoors (clay ovens that look like big clay pots) with gravity defying nans clinging to the sides.

We started with potato and pea samosas ($5.50) and assorted batter fried pakoras (cheese, spinach, potato), basically we had the Indian version of the fried sampler. Each was crisp and grease-less and resulted in a sweet-savory blend when dipped in the accompanying chutney. Although Tamarind does offer a greater variety of dishes you don’t typically see on every Indian restaurant menu (including two lobster dishes and venison chops), we stuck with some of our traditional favorites. The chicken tikka masala ($17) had the mild tomato and cream flavor you expect with tender chucks of chicken grilled in the tandoor. The lamb vindaloo ($18) was especially spicy (too spicy for me) with savory lamb kebabs. I enjoyed the lotus root and homemade cheese dumplings in the nargisi kofta ($14), but the rich saffron and onion sauce fell a little flat. The standout dish of the evening was the saag paneer ($14) – it was awesome. I know we’ve all had this dish a million times and enjoyed it, but Tamarind takes it to new heights. The spinach had a delicate flavor without being salty and the homemade cheese adds the perfect texture. The nan ($3.75) was chewy and fresh, but I found the poori ($4), deep fried puffy bread, too greasy.

Tamarind’s portions are small and the prices a little high, but they do churn out solid Indian cuisine in a comfortable, almost elegant setting. If you’re tired of trying unacceptable Indian restaurants, here’s one that does a decent job. Sure, it’s not an all-around homerun, but it’s worth a try.

Spice Market

2004-07-28T13:02:00.000-04:00

Last weekend, Marty and I joined some friends at the Meatpacking District hotspot, Spice Market. It opened in February as a joint effort from two of New York’s top chefs Gray Kunz (Lespinasse, future Time Warner Center restaurant - Café Gray) and Jean-Georges Vongerichten (Jean-Georges, Vong, 66, V Steakhouse, Mercer Kitchen, JoJo, Nougatine). The gorgeous restaurant decked out with an array of Asian antiques, flowing fabrics, soft-glowing light is Kunz and Vongerichten’s tribute to Asian street food. My curiosity over this uber-sexy hotspot was balanced with fears of another over-hyped, over-priced New York restaurant. It received what should have been a culinary seal of approval in the form of three stars from then interim New York Times restaurant critic, Amanda Hesser. However, this review was yet another catalyst for the growing backlash against Hesser with claims that her personal relationship with Vongerichten influenced the review. Hesser critics also stated the trendy, hip scene overly swayed her gushing descriptions. Other reviewers did give Spice Market generally positive reviews (Steve Cuozzo, Hal Rubenstein) but none threw down the love like Hesser’s (although Andrea Strong does come close).

We started our meal by meeting our waiter, Hottie McHotpants. Seriously, the clearly aspiring model/actor was gorgeous, complete with a Patrick Rafter-esque hairstyle. We apparently lucked out from a purely visual standpoint, as the other wait staff, even the women in the backless shirts, paled in comparison. As the night went on, however, the image of the perfect man was crushed by his rather vacant approach to being a waiter. Bottom line, don’t expect anywhere near three star service.

The food is served when ready from the kitchen and presented family style. This lack of sequencing, which greatly simplifies kitchen operations, creates a more casual dining experience. While we waited for our parade of dishes, we snacked on the delicious papalams and kasundi, an Indian spice-tomato jam (so tasty we asked for seconds). Some dishes were excellent, shaved tuna with tapioca pearls, Asian pear, and chilies in coconut-and-kaffir-lime broth ($11) is a precarious blend of interesting flavors and textures that manages to maintain balance. The succulent meat in the chili and onion crusted short ribs with egg noodles and pea shoots ($18) melted in my mouth (although, I imagine, as one of my dining companions noted, that this dish is likely duplicated in Chinatown for a fraction of the price). Many of the dishes were quite pleasant, but ultimately forgettable - chicken samosas with fresh cilantro yogurt dipping sauce ($8), sea bass with kimchee cabbage, water chestnuts and cucumber ($22), avocado and radish salad with Chinese mustard and tempura onions ($7.50). Other dishes fell short on execution. The shrimp paired with cubed jicama, black bean sauce, and oven-roasted pineapple chunks ($12) were tough and overcooked. The steamed lobster ($29) with butter-fried garlic sat atop of some of the saltiest greens I have ever tasted.

All of Pichet Ong’s desserts we tried were outstanding. The most interesting was the Thai Jewels. The colorful "jewels" are actually water chestnut and tapioca dumplings, gummy droplets flavored with red and green pandan. They are served in a foamy coconut sorbet and ice bath with papaya, jackfruit, passion fruit and coconut.

Overall, I enjoyed my experience at Spice Market, though I don’t think I’ll be rushing to make another reservation. Actually, my approach next time may be to come late in the evening when I’m not too hungry, get a few of my favorites from the menu, and quickly head to the desserts. That way I can enjoy the scene, get the food I preferred, and avoid spending more than it’s worth.

More on Grand Sichuan International Midtown

2004-07-22T12:38:00.000-04:00

Since my maiden voyage to Grand Sichuan International Midtown (9th Ave between 50th and 51st Streets), my multiple visits have resulted in a few more favorites to report here. The sautéed and dry string beans ($7.55) are even better than Little Szechuan’s in Atlanta. The savory string beans are slightly sweet and dotted with bits of ground pork. It’s a classic with exceptional execution. Another new find is the Aui Zhou Spicy Chicken ($8.55). Although, I think the Midtown menu has this misspelled. I’m guessing it should read Guizhou, a province in China. Regardless, I have to say this is even better then the Kung Bao Chicken. It’s a spicy dish with a thin brown sauce with a few bamboo shouts sautéed in with the mix. Again, the fresh killed chicken in the dish is succulent and delicious. Finally, the third find is the Bean Curd and Three Treasure Soup ($5.95). Marty says this is the best Chinese soup he’s ever had. The three treasures are chicken, pork, and shrimp based in a rich chicken broth mixed in with bean curd (= tofu) and a variety of interesting mushrooms. Special thanks to the Farmer for clueing us in on these last two.

Brunch at Bubby's

2004-07-21T10:45:00.000-04:00

I have never really been a "go out for breakfast" kind of girl. I have always preferred lazy mornings at home eating my pancakes and waffles in my pj’s while reading the paper. Marty, conversely, loves to go out for breakfast. Over the years, we have spent many a morning trying to get the other to see the light in our respective preferences. In this case, Marty’s persistence has won me over. Actually, to a point where I have ceased my protests and accepted weekend breakfasts out of the home as part of our routine.

Since moving to New York, I am a bit ashamed to admit, I‘ve been to Bubby’s Pie Company for breakfast nearly every weekend. Like Norma’s in Midtown and Sarabeth’s on the Upper West Side, Bubby’s in TriBeCa seems to be in every guide to NYC. Tourists are lured in with promises of a delicious, yet overpriced brunch and a touch of celebrity spotting on the side. Mixed with the fanny packs and subway maps, there are a host of neighborhood folks ranging from the Bugaboo stroller set to the perfectly disheveled hair and indoor sunglasses crowd. Sorry to all the celebrity stalkers out there, I am yet to recognize any paparazzi prey. But, I can vouch for Bubby’s decent, though not exceptional, brunch.

When trying to determine why Bubby’s has been in such heavy breakfast rotation in our household, I nixed contributing, but not deciding factors such as the location (close to our home), the coffee (damn fine cup of coffee), and the availability (no reservations and waits have been relatively short with the longest ~40 minutes for two people). I decided it’s the cheese grits ($5.95). I’ve loved grits since I was a little girl visiting my family in Georgia. Then, the blandness appealed to the girl who refused sauce, of any sort, on anything. More recently, I honed my love of grits when we lived in Atlanta at my favorite brunch spot anywhere, Babette’s Cafe. Their cheese grits and fruit pancakes were utter perfection. I have never had pancakes so light, yet with texture, and the grits, those grits, ooey gooey cheesy heaven. I digress – Bubby’s cheese grits do not duplicate such mastery, but put forth a solid rendition worthy of repeat consumption.

Other dishes at Bubby’s can be hit or miss. I enjoy the hearty portions of thick slab bacon. Unfortunately, they have stopped serving the beloved smoked chicken and apple sausage. The occasional special of Swedish pancakes with fruit compote (~$14) has been consistently satisfying. However, the pancakes range from okay to disastrous. I once ordered the sourdough blueberry pancakes (~$13), and they were uneatable. When they first arrived they were undercooked with pockets of wet batter hidden below the surface. I sent them back only to receive a second set in the same condition. The sour cream pancakes (~$13) are safe, but still very dense and heavy. The Eggsadilla ($13.95) is a tasty spin on a breakfast quesadilla with chunky guacamole, pureed salsa, black beans, and sour cream topping egg and cheese filled flour tortillas.

Bottom line, Bubby’s should not be considered a destination. It is however, a pleasant, decent breakfast experience that is a little hard on the wallet, but still manages to keep me coming back – well, at least as long as the cheese grits stay on the menu.

Donuts from days passed

2004-07-16T15:26:00.000-04:00

I just returned from a brief getaway to northern Michigan. Sun, beach, the great outdoors – I could get used to that life. Although the focus was on seeing my family, I did get a chance to get my hands on some gastronomic highlights (and lowlights, but I’ll spare you the details of my Mom’s low fat, low carb hotdog and burger night). My family has been camping at Wilderness State Park on Lake Michigan since I was a year and a half old, and I haven’t been in over 10 years. For me, it’s a place brimming with childhood nostalgia, building dams in streams, jumping off swings into the sand, swimming out to the sandbar in Lake Michigan, and warm, homemade donuts. Don’t get confused, when I say homemade, I don’t mean my home. You’ve got to be delusional if you think my family could pull off making donuts while camping. The "homemade" donuts of my youth come from the Wilderness State Park Camp Store. Every morning they churn out the day’s donuts, and when they’re gone, they’re gone (which is usually by 10:00 a.m.). The little, cakey donuts have the minor irregularities (inconsistent shapes, little, slightly over-fried crunchy bits clinging to the inside of the donut hole) that give them their homemade signature. The simple donuts come in traditional varieties -- powdered, cinnamon-sugar, chocolate dipped, blueberry, vanilla nut dipped. So while I was there, I hopped on my bike each morning, rode the 2 miles to the store, and picked up my family’s morning fix, still warm, just as I had remembered. I can’t think of a better way to start a day.